Hey All, I am thinking of changing over my camera system to Fuji. The manual controls are what the main draw is for me, along with the look from the x-trans sensor, and the wonderful OOC Jpegs. Right now I have a m4/3 Panasonic G3, the kit lens and the Panasonic 20mm. I also have a large amount of legacy glass. If I go with the Fuji, I will probably get rid of all of the native glass I have (the G3 body isn't worth much, and it gives me another focal length to play with). The Panasonic is my first ILC (before this was cheap P&S), and I got it when it was fairly new, so Fuji was in a different price bracket at the time, and was far less developed as a system. Question 1: How close are the X-E1 and X-E2 in shooting experience? I will primarily be using legacy glass, figure the kit lens and one of the tele-zooms for native lenses. Several of the reviews I have seen have conflicting information, probably due to updates after the review posted. From what I understand, the E2 has faster AF due to PDAF on sensor, has the split image option, wifi transfer, and more customization. Right now, I see they are ~$500 apart (Adorama has the E1 kit for 700 w/6% back, E2 is 1200 w/4% back). How much real difference would I be getting for $500? Consider I will probably be getting several years out of this body (not one to flip every year/two). Question 2: Lens lineup? I am thinking of getting the kit zoom as I have heard good things as a "standard zoom" coverage range. The other two I am thinking of picking up over time is one of the tele-zooms (probably leaning towards the cheaper one), and a UWA (either the 14/UWA zoom, or one of the two Samyangs, probably due to price differences). I have a decent stable of Minolta SR legacy glass, which seems to cover most of the more common lenses Fuji offers. I have a Vivitar Close Focus 28/2 (instead of the Fuji 27), could pick up a 35mm fairly cheap, a 45/2, 50/1.4 which would both be a bit longer than "normal", a Vivitar 55/2.8 Macro (vs the Fuji 60mm macro), and a Minolta 58 1.4 and 1.2 (vs the Fuji 56 1.2), a Vivitar 135/2.8 (not sure how useful it is with this size sensor) and a JCPenny 80-200/4 (can hold me over until I see if I need an AF tele-zoom). Any gaps anyone else can see that would be missing, or a benefit of any particular Fuji lens that I am overlooking? If I decide I really want a pancake in the 28mm range, I can pick up an Industar 69 for pocketability, or is the 27 worth it? How about the 35mm vs a legacy 35? Question 3: Minolta glass with Fuji X-Trans sensor? After getting a few Minolta lenses (and almost all the Vivitars I have are Komine), I tried a couple of other branded lenses, and couldn't get over the color differentiation within the workflow I had. How does Minolta glass play with the X-Trans sensor? Any problems/issues people have run across? I understand that the workflow will be a bit different, since the different sensor means it has a different "look". Question 4: Dynamic Range and ISO usage between G3/X-E1~2? Looking at some of the graphs (I generally am not a pixel peeper, nor a gearhead) it seems as though the Fujis are a bit better at highlights whereas they lose about a stop or two in shadows? Anyone happen to have shot both (or similar sensors) that can give me an idea in this regard? Don't do too much HDR, but not sure if it is a general difference, or something I would notice while shooting? I generally dont go above 1600 with my G3 (rarely 3200, and I know there will be noise/grain). How visually appealing is the Fuji High ISO Noise? Is it something that can be worked with (aka. understand it will be there, and just treat it like extra grain) or taken care of with NR? Question 5: Flash speeds? I know that the X-E series has a 1/180 sync speed. Is it restricted to this? The reason I ask is that on my G3, if I have a flash on (onboard or external) it defaults to 1/60, but refuses to go beyond 1/160. I understand if I go above the rated sync speed I may have black bands, but is it an option I can choose to do on the Fuji, or is it locked out like the G3? Question 6: Silver durability? I am not a stealth shooter, nor do I obsess over the physical appearance of my gear, but wondering how durable the silver top is on these. I know that on some of the Olympus bodies/lenses, it is silver paint over plastic (no problem there) but that it started to wear/flake faster than a black would have (possible problem). Not planning on blacking out any logos or things like that, but is silver going to be harder to match for touch-ups? Any real pricing difference people have noticed in the used market? Alternative B: Metabones MD-m4/3 adapter? The other case I was looking at was getting the Metabones Speedbooster for my existing m4/3 camera, giving me the approximate FoV that I would get mounting it on the G3 I have. I do already have issues going with the faster shutter speeds in outside daylight, so not sure the extra stop of light would be more of a help or hinderance. The upside is that it is about $400, so significantly cheaper than the X-E1 kit, and may better keep its resale value if I decide it isnt for me (generally resale is low on my list of priorities, but since I am branching out of my comfort zone, it may make sense here). I know that currently Metabones doesn't make a MD-Fuji X Speedbooster. Anyone have experiences with off brands giving good quality? Sorry if this seems a bit rambling, just trying to come up with a list of pros/cons in my head before I decide which way to jump. Right now we are showing our house to move, so it will be a bit before I will act on this. The good news is that where we are moving to has a camera shop which carries both m4/3 and Fuji so I may be able to go in and handle the X-E series and see how it feels. I know this is primarly a Fuji forum, but is there a reason I should stay with my m4/3 gear based off of this?