When do you not aim at 0?

Discussion in 'Fuji X-Mount Cameras' started by mesmerized, Jul 30, 2014.

  1. mesmerized

    mesmerized FujiXspot Regular

    83
    Mar 26, 2014
    Hello there,

    Tomorrow I'll have another chance to fiddle around with my X-T1. I was wondering... I usually try to follow the light meter and try to set the dials in such a way that it says 0 (although I've found myself in situations where underexposing seemed to be a better option) Anyway, do you always aim at 0? If not, when do you keep it below or above 0?

    Thanks
     
  2. Lightmancer

    Lightmancer Super Moderator Subscribing Member

    Feb 2, 2013
    Sunny Frimley
    Bill Palmer
    Well, I always spot-meter and take it from there. Sometimes I deliberately over-expose for a high key effect, thus:
    34098041.bcb5d37f.1024.
    Argostoli Kefalonia Becky X Pro 1 2 par Lightmancer, on ipernity

    ...and other times I expose for a totally different result:
    34097925.f2b2d548.1024.
    Kefalonia to Zante Ferry Early Morning GR 1 par Lightmancer, on ipernity

    The point is, I decide what exposure is "correct", based upon experience and upon the end result I am setting out to achieve. If I set everything to zero, I will end up with an "average" exposure, and that is not what I am trying to do.
     
  3. Peter Chin

    Peter Chin FujiXspot Regular

    124
    Feb 2, 2013
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  4. Arbib

    Arbib FujiXspot Regular

    34
    Mar 30, 2014
    I don't use manual exposure, but I do use Auto-ISO with good success... I do set the f/stop and shutter speed... so, it is like a semi-auto manual mode..
    I mostly use average, (it tends to keep highlights better in bright scenes) but, with tough scenes, I use the spot and move it around until I <see> what I want.
    I keep my EC on <0>, hardly ever use it.
     
  5. flysurfer

    flysurfer X-Pert

    Feb 1, 2013
    Nuremberg
    Rico Pfirstinger
    I like manual exposure, but I never use the scale to judge overall exposure. I use the live view and the live histogram, and I use the scale to put selected parts of the image in the correct zone by spot metering them.
     
  6. bartjeej

    bartjeej FujiXspot Regular

    139
    Mar 31, 2013
    The link provided by Peter Chin is a good starting point indeed.
    Some other instances in which you might want to expose differently from what the camera thinks is right:
    -night scenes. Cameras will often try to brighten them up, but if you wish to preserve the darkness, to really show that it's night, you can use negative exposure compensation
    -different skin colours. black people's skin should be rendered darker than white people's skin. If you spot meter off someone's face (and you're not using some kind of scene mode or auto setting), the camera will try to give it a medium brightness, regardless of whether the person is black or white or green. Again, you can use exposure compensation to bring the face back to the desired brightness.
    -... and so on...

    If you have a camera with a large, modern sensor, you could also just make sure the camera doesn't overexpose or underexpose, and then adjust the brightness during post processing - but it's better to take brightness into account when you're shooting.
     
  7. AlbertInFrance

    AlbertInFrance FujiXspot Regular

    89
    Feb 11, 2013
    Morbihan, France
    If you are going to slavishly follow the meter then why use manual? I generally use either aperture or shutter priority and tweak the EV adjustment dial if I think it needs it.

    Sometimes I'll use full manual if I think I know better than the camera what result I'm after. In that case the last thing I'd want is to 'aim at 0'.

    DSCF9556_zpse44b3036.
     
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